Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Workroom Session #9: Preparing the pieces

 I started out tonight by cutting the remaining pieces and preparing some auxiliary bits.  I plan on a triple bone at center front since there is no  busk, and double bones up the sides.  These will be slipped into cases made of the shell fabric, stitched to the exterior of the  corset.  I also prepared facings for the center back and fused them with a little bit of interfacing to help prevent raveling around the grommets.  There will also be a modesty panel inserted under the lacing gap, but I need to wait to prepare it until after I have trimmed the top edge.  I will also be cutting each gore piece to match its stripe just  before it is inserted.
Back facings, prepared with fusible interfacing
The plan is to start at the center of the front and work outwards.  To this end, the very first thing to be done is sew down the boning case at the center front.  I took the strip I had cut and trimmed it to length, and lined it up with the clips at the center front.  I marked where the stitch lines would need to be with little dots (the lines are straight and don't need to be drawn since there are stripes to follow).  I pressed under the edges and pinned the strip onto the body piece.  I also used a few pins to hold the muslin interlining secure to the ticking.  I don't use a whole lot of pins, but they definitely have their place.
CF with casing strip pinned in place
I carefully stitched, sewing the stitching for the center bone first and then topstitching close to the edges of the casing strip.  I had to take one row out, as it wasn't straight enough; the casing would have been too narrow to accept the boning.  When finished, the casing has nice body and the stripe matches so well it's hard to see the piece.  The gold stitching is a nice detail.
Stitched triple casing

Casing stitching from the reverse
I don't feel like I got  very much done, but careful preparation is an absolute must.  The time taken tonight will make the rest go smoothly.

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