Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Workroom Session #13: Gussets and casings

I started out tonight with the intent of preparing the four back gussets - but plans change!  I did sew in the gussets on each of the middle back pieces.  I noted that I didn't catch the top edge of the slash on the body, but that's OK - the structural nature of the flat felled seams made it a non-issue (although I did have to spend a moment or two mentally reminding myself, "it's just a costume!").
Detail of casing stitchlines crossing gusset point, right side

 Continued behind the cut.....

There was supposed to be a bone running up the back piece close to the gusset.  On looking at the actual piece, that  bone would be too close to the seam.  I did not think it smart to omit it, though - so the new placement would have to center it on the gusset!  Tricky - and if I didn't have the Mercury, I'm not sure I would have attempted it.  A power machine made it fairly easy work.  I just took it slow and stopped at the top of the gusset to adjust the fabric.  Once stitched, I realized that this had the added benefit of enclosing the small areas where I had not caught the edges of the gusset slit.

Casing through gusset, wrong side
When placing featherlite bone casing on the inside of the  corset, I am sewing from the inside along the stitchline on the premade fabric casing.  The bone is still in it.  It feeds through beautifully, and if the needle hits the plastic bone it's unlikely to send shrapnel into my eye.  I then mark the casing at the top with dots; matching dots are made on the plastic bone with a fine tip Sharpie.  The bone is removed and set aside to allow easy handling of the garment.

That done, the original plan was to set the gusset on the center back pieces.  Knowing that the center back is going to take a LOT of special handling, I decided to wait on that particular bit of work and instead go ahead and sew the middle back pieces to the garment.  This went very smoothly with the minor exception of running out of bobbin two inches from the bottom of the second seam.  That's an easy fix.  A newly wound bobbin and I was able to complete the seams.  I had no difficulty pressing, trimming, and felling the allowances.

I am pleased to have another panel finished.  Only the center back panel remains - then I'll have Mom over for a quick fit, trim the edges, and apply binding.  The corset will be done!  Aaaaand..... then on to the rest of the project.....

Speaking of, my next session will be at my folks' house.  I will be working on the jacket and skirt patterns.  The skirt's been kind of bothering me - I'd been unable to find a pattern similar to what I was looking for, and I was a little concerned about sewing patternless.  It came to me, though, that I *have* a fabulous skirt that's exactly the right shape and even close to the length I'm looking for.  It's bias cut black corduroy and is one of the only skirts I've ever worn frequently - so why not copy it in denim?  It should be relatively quick and easy to do, which will help make up for lost time, and the silhouette  is just right.

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