The final part of making these vests is joining together all the parts. I got through most of that tonight, though I will have to wrap up tomorrow. I underestimated how much gold topstitch thread I had and need to get another spool or I'd have at least finished the armscye bindings tonight. I got enough done to show how I'm doing it, though. I'll also have to do the buttonholes and buttons later; it's a little late to be pulling out the other machine and especially late to be hammering on stud buttons.
All the parts sewn together, and the armhole bound.
First I put the lining, shell, and collar together. The curved neckline edge is one of the few places I routinely use pins - it's pretty curvy and there are a lot of layers to get together. There is a notch in the collar at points where it should line up with the center back seam and the shoulder seam; additionally there is a notch on the body pieces where the edge of the collar aligns.
I just spent the last two hours assembling the lining for the Pinkerton vest. It shouldn't take quite that long, but taking the time to photograph each step takes up a certain amount of time. I have to move the table towards the machines and drag the chair to the west side of the room for each photograph of the full tabletop.
The lining parts all laid out, including the Lastwear tags.
The process is pretty much exactly like sewing the shell, except that you also have to stitch all those little fiddly bits of facing onto the lining pieces. And instead of welt pockets, I had tags to sew in. (That's one of the nice things about sewing for a company - Lastwear provided everything including their very nice ribbon tags.)
I got started on the Pinkerton vest this week. I've had a few other obligations (day job, settling in, et cetera) so it's taken me a while to get rolling and then a little longer to get a post up. I will note that I had a big, big distraction come along - I now have a couple of helpers around the sewing room:
Hello other kitty!
The pictures don't do these little guys any justice. Black cats are tough to photograph, and Chichi (up top there) is particularly difficult to photograph as he just plain doesn't like it. He is also totally obsessed with eating thread, so I now have to be pretty careful around the sewing room - I can't leave the machines threaded, or leave trimmings laying about, and need to keep spools and bobbins stored away. Chi's the only cat I know who isn't terrified of the vacuum cleaner. He's not scared of the Mercury, either.
I promise I won't talk about my cats too much, although you might see them again - they DO like to hang out with me as I work, and I'll be making some kitty beds for them eventually here.
And back to the Lastwear project - Pinkertons! I've assembled the shell of one of the vests, and have new workroom photos to share from the process.
I scheduled time to work on the Pinkerton vest on Tuesday evening. I realized that I'd need to practice making welt pockets (it's been years since I've done them) and cut a piece of canvas drill to match the welt pieces and pocket bags. That was also to serve as a test sew for the straight stitch machine. The Mercury failed the test. I burnt up most of my scheduled time trying to get it to form a stitch.
I'm not terribly mechanically minded, so when I stopped by the Lastwear house yesterday I asked Thom if he could help or recommend a repairman. He's supposed to be by later. If he can't help get the machine going, I'll a) get the contact number for his repair guy and b) set up my Bernina.
I've rescheduled the time I had set aside for today to tomorrow and also have some time on Sunday afternoon blocked out to keep the project timeline at least close to on track.