A Steampunk Orange: Laughing Moon California Pants (Part 1)

I've tabled my bustle skirt project for two weeks while I prep up something to take to GearCon.  I leave for the con in just nine days and have a shirt, a vest, and a pair of pants to make for it.

I am using a commercially available pattern for these pants - the Laughing Moon Mercantile California Pants pattern.  Because of this (paired with a need for expediency), I'm not going to take a lot of pictures or go through the step-by step; the goal is to complete the project and offer a fair review of the pattern.  There will definitely be some documentation of the modifications I am making.

The pant is a historically correct pattern, and the pattern comes with separate pieces for four different cuts including a ladies' fit.  That said, I'm not making the womens' pattern because I am a closer fit, measurement-wise, to one of the mens' fits.  The pattern's rather complicated, with 23 separate pieces, including facings and interfacings.  So far I'm pretty impressed with the pattern's quality, and the instructions are pretty good.

That's a big stack of tissue pieces.

Additionally, I will be altering the outseam to turn the plain pant leg into a jodpur.  This will be sewn in white duck and paired up with a shirt with detachable collar and Teasdale from Lastwear, also in white.  Spats, cane, black bowler.  Might we be up to a melanky bit of the old ultra-steampunkery, O my droogs?  Perhaps.

I made a muslin of the pant without going into all the details of the elaborate fly.  The fit is excellent.  The goal is to get the parts all cut out tonight so I can start sewing up tomorrow.

Bernina 830 Record

I am a terrible, terrible slacker.  Well okay, I'm not, but I've been involved in a bunch of other stuff and haven't worked on a lot of projects.  I've  been a bit scattered and haven't had a lot of focus on making stuff.

Well, now I'm down to the wire to get a project done and I've barely started.  That's the BEST way to get stuff done, right?

I do have some photos from what I got done earlier and will be taking more as I really get rolling.  There is a change in the photo quality mid-stream as my old, cheap camera gave up the ghost; I've replaced it with a new one.  It's nothing fancy, still just a point and shoot type thing, but it means I have no excuse for not working because I can't record what I'm doing.

Before I dive into a big project, I'm finishing up some little ones.  For both my small stuff and the large project ahead, I've set up my home machine.  I'll be needing zigzag stitching in a few places and will be making lots of buttonholes. My machine is old, simple and totally awesome.  I was gifted a Bernina 830 Record when I graduated from WWU in 2001; my aunt had purchased it new in 1977 and rarely used it, so passed it on to accompany the Pfaff Hobbylock 4842 that my parents had bought for me.  Both of these machines are still in great working condition and see regular use, although I've used the industrial for the vast majority of my sewing since I bought it.

This thing came with a jillion feet and a table (which I'm not using right now due to space constraints in my flat).

Bernina 830's are still in high demand; they are reliable, sturdy, and available for a long time so a lot of people had them and learned on them.  There are several on eBay and the local Craigslist right now for a minimum of $400.  I regularly thank my aunt for it, it's been a joy to have and it makes a pretty darned good buttonhole.  It's even better when I've got it's table set up, but I just don't have the room.

Field trip: Stitches Seattle

I really like supporting local business.  There aren't too many indie fabric stores any more; most of us have to buy our yardage at Jo-Ann's and the like.  There are a few places out there, though - Seattle hosts a couple of neat little independent stores, plus a local chain.  I went to visit one of them today.

I was planning on making a Pinkerton from beginning to end today, but was feeling a bit stir-crazy and decided to visit Stitches.  It's the closest fabric store to home; I walked.  It's a little less than a mile from my flat.

Right next to Babeland.

For a small, in-city storefront, they have a pretty well rounded inventory.  The selection of fabric is small, but most of it is very nice quality; not as nice as Nancy's, but a cut above the big chain stores' stuff.  I refrained from buying anything, but I was sorely tempted by a number of things.  They had some awesome quilting-weight cottons, and a small selection of organic cotton and bamboo.  They have a full selection of  notions, some of which you won't find at Jo-Ann's.

There are a few classes, starting with very basic sewing and progressing through more intermediate level projects.  They also have knitting classes; the gal at the counter said their class space is small and the classes are limited to about four people.  I consider that a good thing as teaching craft skills really takes a decent amount of one-on-one attention, which is difficult in larger groups.

If you're near Broadway, stop by.  Shop local, Seattle!

Pinkertons: Assembling the parts

The final part of making these vests is joining together all the parts. I got through most of that tonight, though I will have to wrap up tomorrow.  I underestimated how much gold topstitch thread I had and need to get another spool or I'd have at least finished the armscye bindings tonight.  I got enough done to show how I'm doing it, though.  I'll also have to do the buttonholes and buttons later; it's a little late to be pulling out the other machine and especially late to  be hammering on stud buttons.

All the parts sewn together, and the armhole bound.

First I put the lining, shell, and collar together.  The curved neckline edge is one of the few places I routinely use pins - it's pretty curvy and there are a lot of layers to get together.  There is a notch in the collar at points where it should line up with the center back seam and the shoulder seam; additionally there is a notch on the body pieces  where the edge of the collar aligns.

(Pictures and more beyond the cut!)

Pinkertons: Lining

I just spent the last two hours assembling the lining for the Pinkerton vest.  It shouldn't take quite that long, but taking the time to photograph each step takes up a certain amount of time.  I have to move the table towards the machines and drag the chair to the west side of the room for each photograph of the full tabletop.

The lining parts all laid out, including the Lastwear tags.

 The process is pretty much exactly like sewing the shell, except that you also have to stitch all those little fiddly bits of facing onto the lining pieces.  And instead of welt pockets, I had tags to sew in.  (That's one of the nice things about sewing for a company - Lastwear provided everything including their very nice ribbon tags.)

(More behind the cut!)

Pets and Pinkertons

I got started on the Pinkerton vest this week.  I've had a few other obligations (day job, settling in, et cetera) so it's taken me a while to get rolling and then a little longer to get a post up.  I will note that I had a big, big distraction come along - I now have a couple of helpers around the sewing room:

Hello kitty!

Hello other kitty!

The pictures don't do these little guys any justice.  Black cats are tough to photograph, and Chichi (up top there) is particularly difficult to photograph as he just plain doesn't like it.  He is also totally obsessed with eating thread, so I now have to be pretty careful around the sewing room - I can't leave the machines threaded, or leave trimmings laying about, and need to keep spools and bobbins stored away.  Chi's the only cat I know who isn't terrified of the vacuum cleaner.  He's not scared of the Mercury, either.

I promise I won't talk about my cats too much, although you might see them again - they DO like to hang out with me as I work, and I'll  be making some kitty beds for them eventually here.

And back to the Lastwear project - Pinkertons!  I've assembled the shell of one of the vests, and have new workroom photos to share from the process.

(More below the cut...)

Equipment fail!

I scheduled time to work on the Pinkerton vest on Tuesday evening.  I realized that I'd need to practice making welt pockets (it's been years since I've done them) and cut a piece of canvas drill to match the welt pieces and pocket  bags.  That was also to serve as a test sew for the straight stitch machine.  The Mercury failed the test.  I burnt up most of my scheduled time trying to get it to form a stitch.

I'm not terribly mechanically minded, so when I stopped by the Lastwear house yesterday I asked Thom if he could help or recommend a repairman.  He's supposed to be by later.  If he can't help get the machine going, I'll a) get the contact number for his repair guy and b) set up my Bernina.

I've rescheduled the time I had set aside for today to tomorrow and also have some time on Sunday afternoon blocked out to keep the project timeline at least close to on track.