Thursday, February 14, 2013

Reviewing my draping skills

Well, it's been a while since I've seriously looked at my own sewing work - I've been caught up in some "real life" projects that took a bit of time and effort to get sorted out.  I've been doing more work with Lastwear as well, including helping out at a couple of fashion shows.  This is always a good time, and it really makes me feel like an industry insider.

I need to get back on track with building my own skills back up.  I feel out of practice and that some of the things I've learned need serious review.  So - I picked a project to work on that will move me forward.  I am going to prepare a sloper set that fits my dress form.  I will eventually both drape and draft the pieces for a set of base patterns, but I am going to drape first.  When I've done it both ways and made paper patterns, I'll compare how they came out and then make a set of tag patterns.  The set will have the same parts I have from school, except the ones I made then are "industry standard" size 8 and the ones I'll be making  now are size 12.  Down the road I'll do a set that fits ME as well.

(more behind the cut)

I got a jump start on this project by dragging out my drafting book from school, along with my old lecture notes, and gave them a look-over.  The book has a lot of stuff we didn't do but serves as a great reference to go back to when considering how to construct new designs and will easily guide me through draping a sloper.

I'll be making these parts, in this order:

  • One dart bodice front
  • Bodice  back
  • Two dart bodice front
  • Skirt front
  • Skirt back
  • Torso front
  • Torso back
I also took the liberty of measuring and preparing my dress form.  Preparation of the form involves adding some pins and some horizontal strips of twill tape to mark key reference points on the form.

Before  preparation
After preparation
Detail of prepared form showing reference point pins at shoulder

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