Workroom Session #16: Cutting a jacket muslin

Tonight I stopped of at Byrnie Utz and picked up a hat.  I had one I liked online, but didn't know what my hat size was - so I was going to stop in to the local fancy hat shop and find out and then order it.  However, they had a nice hat that I liked on hand for about the same price.  It's not so much a gambler with that distinctive pencil roll edge, but it suits just fine.  I'll take pictures tomorrow when my mother's here to help check the corset and jacket fits.

I also prepped the jacket pattern.  I am using Simplicity 2344 as a base; it's just a princess-seam, band collar jacket, but it is in my size and it should be easy to make the changes I am looking to make.  This particular pattern is nice in that it contains separate patterns for different bust sizes!  It did mean that there are a LOT of pieces on the tissue.  It took me a bit to hunt down all the pieces, cut out, and press them.  I have cut out the collar, fronts, backs, and one sleeve, but it was late enough that I did not want to start the Mercury.  stitching the parts together will not take long. 

Short post tonight, it's late.  See you all soon!

Workroom Sessions 14 & 15: Back facings, setting eyelets

I have been a bit remiss, and I am behind on my timeline.  I am VERY glad I set an early deadline because I now do not believe I will make completion for Halloween.  I do still think I have time to make good for SteamCon, though!  I worked a bit on the 7th, and in little bits and pieces between now and then; I put in another very good, very productive session tonight.

Last Thursday I prepared the back pieces. I took photos of the gussets, but that is old hat - they are just more of the same, so I will spare you the bandwith and not upload those.  However, the center back pieces do have a bit that is different.  They have facings that run up the edges.  I cut strips to use for this when I cut the garment, and even fused them with some mid-weight interfacing.  Now it was finally time to apply them.

Unlike the bone casings at the center front and sides, the facings go to the inside.  I suppose I could have turned them to the outside, but chose not to for... not sure.  It doesn't matter.  I pinned the strips on to the shell pieces and stitched them.  I did not trim the 1/2" seam allowances, as I knew they would be fully encased and would only serve to add body and structure to the area that takes the most stress.

Center back facing, pinned to the shell

More after the cut...